What are Synthetic fibres?
Synthetic fibres are artificial fibres that are generally derived from fossil fuels. Unlike natural fibres, which are derived from living organisms like plants (cotton, linen) and animals (wool, silk), synthetic fibres are created through chemical processes. Examples of synthetic fibres include Polyester, Nylon, Spandex, Acrylic and Microfibers.
The 20th century saw a rapid increase in global population and a corresponding rise in demand for textiles. Synthetic fibres helped meet this growing demand with new materials that could be quickly produced.
Synthetic fibres are environmentally unfriendly, from the extraction of the fibres to the final fabric-making stage of production. However, it seems inevitable for fashion brands not to use synthetic fibres. Why? Due to certain pros that obviously don't outweigh the cons. Here are the general pros and cons of synthetic fibres:
Pros:
Cheap: They are mass-produced from petrochemicals, which are less expensive and more readily available than natural raw materials.
Durable: Their chemical structure provides resistance to wear and tear.
Synthetic fibres can also be water-resistant, non-shrinkable and highly elastic.
Cons:
Not breathable: Their tightly woven structure and plastic-based materials hinder air circulation and moisture absorption.
May cause skin irritations: They often trap moisture and hinder skin breathability, leading to irritation or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.
Non-biodegradable: They are made from fossil fuels, forming complex polymers that do not easily break down in the environment.
Microplastic pollution: They shed tiny plastic particles during washing and wear, which then enter and contaminate waterways and oceans.
Energy-intensive: Their manufacturing processes require significant amounts of petroleum-based feedstocks and high-energy inputs for polymerization and fibre spinning.
Types of synthetic fibres
Polyester:
Polyester was discovered in 1941 by British chemists John Rex Whinfield and James Tennant Dickson.
It is derived from petroleum. The manufacturing of polyester is an energy-intensive process and emits greenhouse gases.
Polyester comes in two types— PET (polyethylene terephthalate) and PCDT ( poly-1, 4-cyclohexylene-dimethylene terephthalate)
This fibre is loved by fashion brands, especially fast fashion brands, as it comes in as a replacement or supplement for not one but various natural fibres.
Polyester is wrinkle-resistant, durable, and dries fast. It is also less prone to shrinking and fading than cotton; hence, it is generally blended with cotton.
It is also used as an alternative or complement to wool in colder weather clothing and to silk in formal dresses and blouses due to its ability to mimic the texture and drape of natural fibres while offering certain performance benefits, often at a lower cost.
Nylon:
Nylon is the first synthetic fibre introduced at DuPont by Wallace Carothers and his team in the late 1930s.
Nylon is also derived from petroleum and comes in two types: nylon 6 and nylon 6.6
The finishing of nylon is durable and water-repellent, but it is environmentally unfriendly.
Nylon was initially designed as a replacement for silk and was first used in women's stockings, an item that was in high demand and previously made of silk. The advent of nylon stockings was revolutionary, offering a more durable and less expensive alternative to silk stockings.
Spandex (Elastane):
Introduced in the late 1950s by Dupont textile scientist Joseph C., spandex (also known as Lycra or elastane) was designed to provide stretch and improve the fit, comfort, and performance of fabrics.
Spandex is a segmented polyurethane and a by-product of petroleum.
Spandex, known for its exceptional elasticity, is used as an enhancement or supplement to a range of fabrics, both natural and synthetic. It is often used in small percentages to add stretch to cotton, polyester, nylon, and others.
Before spandex, natural rubber or latex was the primary source of elasticity in fabrics. Rubber threads were incorporated into textiles to give them stretch, but these materials were not as durable, comfortable, or resistant to chemicals and sweat as spandex. Spandex offered a superior alternative with its ability to stretch up to five times its original length and then snap back to its original shape, enhancing the durability and comfort of garments. It is widely used in sportswear, activewear, hosiery, underwear, swimwear, and other compression garments.
Acrylic:
Acrylic was created in 1941 by DuPont, but it commercially clicked in the 1950s.
Acrylic is made from a synthetic polymer called acrylonitrile. It is generally produced by reacting petroleum or coal-based chemicals with many hydrocarbons or monomers.
Acrylic fibre is often considered a synthetic alternative to wool because it was designed to mimic wool's warmth and texture but at a lower cost. Acrylic fibres are lightweight, soft, and warm, with a wool-like feel. They can be machine-washed and dried without shrinking, which is a common problem with natural wool and are resistant to moths, oils, and chemicals.
Acrylics are used in a variety of products that would traditionally have been made from wool, including sweaters, socks, fleece wear, and blankets, but they do not have all the properties of wool, such as natural breathability and the ability to regulate temperature.
Microfiber:
Microfiber is made from synthetic fibres with different compositions and combinations of nylon, acrylic, and polyester.
Microfiber is known for its durability, softness, and its ability to absorb moisture quickly. Its fine fibres create a densely packed structure that provides excellent cleaning and polishing capabilities, making it ideal for applications in cleaning cloths, towels, mops, and even clothing, particularly in activewear, swimwear, and outdoor apparel.
Microfibers are highly controversial because they can never be recycled, and they cause damage to the aquatic food chain.
In short:
While synthetic fibres offer affordability, durability, and versatility in various applications, their production contributes to environmental pollution, reliance on non-renewable resources, and energy-intensive processes, highlighting the urgent need for sustainable alternatives to mitigate their negative impacts on ecosystems and human health.
